Beginnings, endings and continuings – all have been a part of this week happening far away and close to home here in 10 Corso Como. A new installation of Kris Ruhs is being placed outside here in Milano and here, inside Milano
I have been most focused on the continuings of my great friendship with the Newtons.
The show of Alice Springs: these are photos I have wanted to exhibit for a very long time – as long as I have known Helmut and his wife June, “Alice Springs” Newton.
I cannot help but think of the four exhibitions we have had for Helmut at the Galleria.
He and June have been supporters of the Galleria’s vision since started and it is such a delight for me to have this exhibition of June’s work.
She who has urged Helmut along his path. Her path is so clearly exciting. Here two pictures in my office, June with a friend in 1999 and Helmut in 1996.
Alice Springs first photographs were for Gitanes cigarettes. By coincidence, Helmut was ill and Alice went to do the job. Her career as a photographer for Depeche Mode blossomed and for years, taking portraits she met and be friended people everywhere she would travel.
Many do not realize that the greatest talents have great humor as well, as it is not always in front of the camera. Here, humor being a part of their life and work, June, Alice Springs, is doing an advertising campaign for Jean Louis David and the “extra” is Helmut dressed as a nun.
A wonderful present from the Helmut Newton Foundation’s director Matthias Harder was this art book by Berlin based artist Brigitte Waldach.
So many levels of meditation in her works, done with fine line drawings and only a deep red pigment on paper to reinforce symbolically her intentions.
Her references to literature and motion pictures seem only a departing point for deeper considerations of space and how we choose to occupy it.
A most controversial artist because of his direct nude photos, he was one of the sweetest and nicest people to work with. Still working at Vogue I had the pleasure of spending many days working with him in his NY studio.
Everytime I would visit it was surprising the direction he would take the shoot.
Seeing his retrospective now showing at “Forma” here in Milano one can still sense the surprise his work always generates. Not to be missed.
One of the best fashion illustrators – Antonio Lopez. He worked both in Paris and New York with the great designers Charles James and Largerfeld and so many others. When I was with Vogue we not only worked with some of the best
photographers, but illustrators like Antonio as well and visiting his studio was always interesting. Jerry Hall, Grace Jones and Jessica Lange would become friends and model for him.
Here Pat and Antonio. Pat was the first of the cult of the super models and appeared on the cover of Antonio’s book shown here and she still is an icon forty years later.
How amazing that here is this photograph of three of the most exceptional of all the designers of this century suspended in the light from the 18th century as in a painting. Azzedine Alaia, Rudi Gernreich and Thierry Mugler whose influence achieved such a high degree of importance changing fashion in ways we only now see – three together in this installation.
A unique moment caught. How can one not love photography?
In the midst of my work I realized that this week has been one of nostalgia.
Reflecting on the past can bring on a bit of melancholy but it also fires
the re-emergence of aesthetics and this week surely we have seen that.
Introducing here Maison Courreges, the beautiful Whitman poem that Oliviero Toscani read to honor Elio Fiorucci and of course the sad news today
of the legend Whitney Houston.
So many years I have been following his work and his multi-talented skills, but always happy to be surprised by his different inspirations.
Multi-talented artist, a painter and a sculptor, that has worked with
Comme des Garçons to great delight many many seasons, in magazines and for many famous designers. Julien d’Ys is hosted on the Metropolitan Museum site
for his work on The Model As Muse: Embodying Fashion he worked on in 2009.
Having also worked with the Met on Anglomania and Super Hero shows there,
d’Ys amazingly fanciful wigs always draw gasps of wonder.
Kris Ruhs will have another in his series of installation sculptures outside
of the 10 Corso Como Milano building installed next week.
Here in the studio today the seven Totems in process are already
taking wonderful shapes.
Courrèges himself said: “we work for today to create tomorrow’s style”.
He thought the world was aging in 1965 and he sketched a look so radical
that he started a revolution. Spare dresses worn 4 inches above
the knees with flat white boots.
10 Corso Como hosts now a celebration for Courrèges 50th anniversary.
Malcolm Mc Laren was a close friend of Elio Fiorucci. He began many movements in both the music and fashion world in London that started trends for decades on.
Manager of the Sex Pistols and former partner of Vivienne Westwood,
his ideas influenced NY, L.A., Tokyo and Paris.
In 1988 he wrote Deep in Vogue about culture and fashion crossover,
creating the Vogueing dance and song.
“But here I am Vogueing pretty
In some club deep in this city
Deep in Vogue, Deep in Vogue
Imagine runway modelling, in freeze frame
At the ball that’s what they call Vogueing“
Elio’s list of best friends now seems important but then
it was as outsiders making waves and having fun.
Here some best friends: Andy Warhol who at the opening of Fiorucci New York
wrote ”I like everything here…it is all plastic”,
Keith Haring who came to Milano to decorate the Fiorucci shop,
Basquiat of whom Fiorucci funded the movie New York Beat
(to become Downtown 81),
Ettore Sottsass, Oliviero Toscani and Malcom McLaren among others.
Oliviero Toscani honored Elio by reading the poem Beginners, by Walt Whitman,
the visionary American poet.
Maripol worked and traveled as art director for Fiorucci.
Polaroid is a great invention that she, like Warhol used as “voyeurs” of their times.
They took thousands of portraits of all this world of fashion, music, film and art.
Maripol became the stylist for friend Madonna on the Like a Virgin video
that rocked the music scene.
On Friday evening Elio Fiorucci was honored by the Circolo Filologico of Milano.
For 130 years they have honored those who have brought new ideas
into the culture from language, science and the arts.
In 1967 when Elio opened his Fiorucci store in Galleria Passerella something
changed in the conservative fashion scene here in Milano. At this time in London
Biba was the fresh fashion reference and in Milano there was Gulp -
but nothing existed in Milano or anywhere else like the store that Elio Fiorucci built.
The San Babila store had three floors of novelties
and things you couldn’t find anywhere else.
More importantly, everything was an original. The prize he received on Friday
evening was more than deserved. Grazie Elio for your vision.
This week everything seems white. Always a fascinating color .
It is both sharp and yet has no edge. From the snows this week in Milano that
added magic to nature, the new designs of Tom Dixon in marble and the
solo exhibit of Paolo Roversi in London , the soft luminescence of
white moves over the days this week carrying us into
the whitest February in 27 years.
After Paolo’s opening Wapping hosted a wonderful dinner in this unusual building in East London. Built in 1890, this immense hydraulic power station has been converted to galleries and a restaurant the serious “foodies” are now traveling to.
It is a privilege to be near beauty when fashion design and photography meet as they do in Paolo Roversi’s photographs. Known for working with the “intelligent designers” the strength of style in these portraits of women represent the best beauty and magic of this white season. Somehow you see the edge but it is also seamless.
Now at Wapping and not to be missed if in London.
Tom Dixon showed his first home accessories line at Maison & Object for everyday wares. Eclectic, the name of his collection uses many of the same materials he has always favored. Liking the organic, he blends copper, wood and marble to make bowls, serving trays and candleholders that creates a maze of lights
adding magic to any place.
Roman or Parisian? I am happily spending much time in Paris these days working on so many different projects and enjoying the most beautiful city in the world…so the chance to go to Rome this week where I am not very often is a surprise gift to me. Curious as always. I think of Paris as a city of great beauty but Rome has a magnificence that every time I am there it takes my breath. Both have rivers running through them, both have great art and culture; both are romantic. I wonder which is the most beautiful…Paris or Rome…
In Paris we are letting off the pressure of whatever we do and how our lives have taken us to here. I am playing with Azzedine and Grace over cocktail time as only old friends can do. Artists when at the cafes would have sketched this moment,
I have my I PAD.
Every great city has its premiere Café and in Paris it is here, Café Procope.
This restaurant in St. Germain des Prés has had many famous diners like Voltaire, Rousseau and the theatre of the Comedie Française as well as politicians like Napoleon. Named after the historian Procopius who wrote the scandalous
Secret Histories, the Italian Francesco Procopio Dei Coltelli opened this café
in the 17th Century. I like to think that this helped its success.
Here the modular shelving system Pierre Paulin designed for François Mitterand
in the 80’s. He used to describe himself as “continuing to work for the power”.
This means that art and beauty have always contributed to support the vision
of great leaders.
While the architecture is unchanged, the Presidents of France, at least in their private apartments have enjoyed the Avant-garde. Pierre Paulin designed the private residence of Claude and Georges Pompidou in the Elysée in the 70’s. The famous pumpkin chair with its pouf was reedited in 2008. This year the other chair and pouf will be reedited. These photographs are original from the Elysée as are the photos from Paulin’s own collection.
With the stairs of Trinità dei Monti at its right, the cafe Greco is THE stop for coffee or just for the experience of being there. For 250 years this cafè founded by a Levantine person – Greco -, artists and writers have had their coffees here, Goethe, Stendhal, Leopardi, D’Annunzio…, so sitting and enjoying the atmosphere of these rooms makes me think of all the great personalities who have been here. I wonder also why it is foreigners who start the cafes? The Greek in Rome; the Italian in Paris? Curious.
I had never been to the Quirinale before, the amazing house built by
Pope Gregory VIII as his summer residence. This building has so much art, sculpture and tapestries from the Renaissance it is hard to imagine it as a summer house.
And that the Vatican was not enough for the Popes! The mansion sits on the highest hill in Rome and looks out over the city. The Hill of Quirina is one of the seven hills on which Rome was built. It is said that the gardens here have the ruins of temples to the Dioscuri, the twins Castor and Pollux. One mortal, one immortal. Just like Rome.
For six years now, the President has been hosting the Leonardo Awards for the excellence of Italy. The Leonardo Awards were created to honor people and companies whose work has helped to promote Italian products around the world.
This year Piero Antinori received the first for his wines that his family has made for
400 years. His three daughters now also work in the business and I think this is worthy of mentioning. President Giorgio Napolitano hosted a light lunch and all of us were happy to meet a great man working so hard for Italy.
One new year ends in the Occident and another starts in the Orient! So many new things happening for 2012 in both the east and the west for us.This month we started CU@10CC in Milano for the new year and starting in March 15th we open our new spaces in Tokyo with CDG at DSMG, then, on March 30th we open at AvenueL in Seoul – So if this is the Dragon year for good luck and fortune, I hope he visits us while we are getting ready.See you in Asia!
The lunar new year starts now and all the celebrations to bring wealth and happiness and longevity are starting all over Asia. This is a special year 2012, it is the dragon year of luck and good fortune. Dragons are found on many beautiful embroidered silks from China but only the emperor could have a dragon with five toes on his robes.
This year is also called the water dragon year and the magic is that in this year you get back all that you have given. And since it is true that it is the giving that is always the gift, I give to you all the best wishes for a wonderful dragon year!
“Today is your birthday! Today is my birthday too!”
…the song of the Beatles is a perfect interpretation of the meaning
of a birthday party – everyone gets to have a wonderful time.
No matter whose birthday it is!
Dinners at Alaia’s kitchen are always a great moment for me in Paris.
People are always surprising Alaia with visits during the shows
and always a dish is ready for them in the most welcoming atmosphere.
Here my sister Franca and her son Francesco enjoy a moment at Alaia’s table.
Another surprising collection by Rei Kawakubo. This season’s menswear show really underlines her choice in naming her brand Comme des Garcons at the end of the 70′s.
The “Men’s” Collection was not for men, or women for that matter… just an amazing series of shapes that suit both sexes in striking ways.
A grand moment at Milano men’s fashion week with the theatrical environment at Prada’s show. Each show she does is always presented in a surprisingly new installation, this time on a giant red carpet.
Her “Red Carpet” meaning perhaps the end of the tyranny of the black tuxedo
at Oscar night?
With Adrien Brody, Gary Oldman and other great movies stars showing some really delightful new formal wear en situ.
In time for Paris Men’s Fashion Week, 40 original L’uomo Vogue cover pictures went up for auction at Sothebys to raise money for the United Nations, of which Franca Sozzani is the goodwill ambassador for fashion.
The bidding was lively for this good cause with the Francesco Carrozzini picture of Keith Richards reaching the highest bid of the evening.
I am here in Paris trying to send photos from the I Pad to the office and I find this wonderful app! All color and shape changing – creating a kaleidoscope effect from the ceilings of the office in Paris.It takes my mind into hundreds of different directions like the psychedelic 60’s, only now with a button.
It is not a Blade Runner panoramic space but
the new 10 Corso Como at Lotte Avenue L in the middle of construction! In six weeks we will open to welcome visitors to a 10 Corso Como World – maybe with construction hats with the Corso Como logo? A lot of work to be done!
It is all in the bag! Not always true, but packaging has such an important meaning.
At 10 Corso Como, since our package is also our logo and also our name and all designed by Kris Ruhs.
Here is a new interpretation of the 10 Corso Como iconic logo into the packages
for 10 Corso Como at AvenueL opening in Seoul in March 30th.
This week preparations planned in 2011 are now starting to grow in earnest in 2012 as we see another new fashion season approaching. Milano is hosting Men’s Fashion Week and many visitors are in the city these days. It is always interesting to see Milano with foreign eyes and appreciate this city and its treasures again. I have never understood why because there is great business to do here in Milano, many don’t even try to know or understand the magic of our past and present, so here are some of my favorites.
The first and sometimes only image people remember is The Duomo. Like a confection rising up from the piazza with a view from its roof across Central Milan, this image is celebrated around the world. And the most celebrated opera house in the world, La Scala, is nearby.
Another architectural masterpiece rarely visited is Giò Ponti’s skyscraper conceived by him for the Pirelli Company as a symbol of the economic miracle Milano went through recovering from the devastation of war. It was this period that reinforced the Milanese sense of business and industry that has been our reputation since the Dukes of Sforza in the Renaissance. A visit to the 31st floor now open to the public is a great discovery of Giò Ponti’s vision of the Belvedere and his “metaphor for the infinite urban horizon” of civilization.
It is a must to find some time to visit the Biblioteca Ambrosiana. Founded by Cardinal Borromeo in the 17th century, his library has an important collection of manuscripts including a Codex of Leonardo Da Vinci. Borromeo also collected art and started a university for Doctors where study and culture joined. Raphael’s cartoon, and Botticelli as well as Titian are in this collection. Here in the pictures three drawings by Leonardo, articulated wing, inclinometor, parachute.
Milano is the capital of industrial design, true, but continues today to be a leader in fine arts. To balance the beauty of the treasures of Brera with Piero della Francesca and all the Italian masters, the new Museum of Novecento is an impressive witness to the history of Italian art in the 20th Century from the “Futurism” of the past to the art of the present.
Maurizio Cattelan who lives in Milan and New York now has a large retrospective of his work in the Guggenheim in NYC. Last year his sculpture L.O.V.E was installed in front of the Milano Stock Exchange. It caused some comments, as art does. Here his colouring and activity book.
It might sound strange but a visit to Cimitero Monumentale is a real discovery. It is a very large cemetery conceived at the time of unification in the middle of the 19th Century. Since then it has become a who’s who for the architects and sculptors of Italy from modernist to classical with size and composition all demanding attention as you walk around. It even has its own museum and tours. Here in the picture a tomb sculpture by Arnoldo Pomodoro, 1969.
At a walking distance from the Monumentale, at the entrance of the inner city, since 1880. Antica trattoria della Pesa has served Milanese the best risotto “al salto” (fried) in town. The name of La Pesa comes from the weights (pesa) used to calculate the taxes on merchandise being brought to markets, including the salt from the coast, a very expensive commodity traveled on horse carts with armed guards during the Renaissance. Another curiosity at La Pesa is that Ho Chi Minh lived here, after he came from Paris where he was chef patissier with Escoffier.
As winter’s weather brings slow evenings, I am thinking that changes begin with each of us. I wish I could see the changes that will come and what 10 Corso Como will prepare to welcome them. With all the new talents in photography, fashion and design to keep an eye on this year it is a gift to work at what I truly enjoy.
Seeing the eyes on the IT book on my desk reminded me of a classic from the 1970’s, The Eyes of Laura Mars. A thriller with Tommy Lee Jones, Raoul Julia and Faye Dunaway. The movie used the photographs of Rebecca Blake. She did much like Helmut Newton….very erotic slightly dangerous pictures and she could see what was going to happen next!
This photo of Swedish born American sculptor Claes Oldenburg was taken by Hannah Wilke, a sculptor and artist with whom he traveled and shared studios in New York.
His eyes and words join together.He knew the meaning of changes.In the ’70s he said, “Everything I do is completely original-I made it up when I was a little kid”.
The International Times (IT) was part of the London Revolution. This famous underground newspaper lasted only 205 issues. With writers like Burroughs, Ginsberg, Germaine Greer – and interviews with celebrities like
Pete Townsend and Pink Floyd, it is easy to enjoy. The graphics are so strong that the eyes are captured instantly.
”So I think So I paint”. This biography of Fortunato Depero never leaves the table next to my desk. Writer, sculptor, painter, toy maker and costume designer,
he was above all for me the best graphic designer. This famous book is 234 pages of his manifesto for Futurism for the Universe.
The ideas of Depero became real in every day living.He designed the Campari Soda bottle still used and changed the style of advertising visuals forever.
His work is now in the museum he founded in Rovereto.
This COPPA DI BRIVIDI ad in 1931 is the perfect illustration for cocktails.
CU@10CC will open next week. Already it can be seen as a wonderful addition to the evenings at 10 Corso Como. Cocktails, tapas dining and some warm sounds every Thursday evening with Natasha Slater will chase the chill out of winter.
Perhaps this is the reason I started thinking about eyes this week.
The New Year opened here at 10 Corso Como with this painting of a new smiling face and very bright eyes I have found on my desk as a present.
I think he is looking to a positive optimistic beginning of the year. How lucky we are to be able to see the talent and enjoy these changes.
The best things we do in life are made with love. For the New Year, more love of the challenge to create, to explore, to pioneer and to question. Everything must come from the heart- this love sparks life for me for the New Year.
Photographer Bruce Weber brings so much emotion and thought again in this, his
11th book from his All American series he publishes every Christmas season.
The poem by Leonard Cohen inside “There is a war”, and the clarity of his photos,
so truthful, of the homecomings of soldiers is a great beginning of the year. And the book ends with Bruce’s essay on “Remembering Elizabeth Taylor” and is particularly touching as a woman who loved life and helped others also.
An inviting cover for a superb book, made with love by perfumer Frederic Malle.
11 years ago his vision as Editeur de Parfums allowed the artistry of the perfumer the freedom to construct new scents without constraint. Each perfumer became a “fragrance author” and Malle their “publisher”. With a preface by Catherine Deneuve and illustrations by Konstantin Kakanias, this book is different
from all others on the subject of scent.
Francesco & Sara: there is a special bond between these cousins – here looking at presents on Christmas Day. They are closer with each other than any other relationship in or out of the family. Always confiding in the other; care.
Best friends with the same blood; and no conflicts.
In an era where recycle-reuse-reinvent has become finally a conscious problem for the whole world, there is a lot of nostalgic feeling for something we will never see again – the naive paper dresses which were so popular in the 60′s. Invented in 1966 by Scott Paper Company as a marketing idea, the classic A style was as popular as t shirts today. Whether they were really made from paper or nonwoven cellulose and paper, they are great souvenirs of disposable dressing! I couldn’t help but be fascinated by this all over pattern of a cat featuring a giant photograph on this poster dress,and hang on my wall just in front of my desk.
Warhol was of course immediately attracted! Paper dresses perfectly embodied the spirit of Pop Art. He hand painted himself only two dresses now in the Brooklyn Museum. Scott Paper and Warhol inspired Campbell Soup Company in 1968 to offer the Souper Dress as a promo. This time it was the soup company that made the spoof of Warhol.
Today the Souper Dresses are very collectable .
It is a tradition to start cleaning drawers at the start of the New Year. These red Kuramata rotating drawers are all empty and ready for some new year’s energy. First thing in…the new red packaging designed for the 10 Corso Como opening in AvenueL in Seoul in March.
I am between desks flying home for Christmas. Feeling like this so high in the sky – on this bridge between the past and future – I cannot help but be grateful for the family and friends I share this magical day with. Christmas is about community, people coming together and helping each other. A special celebration of giving and sharing. A moment when we think and dream all the joy filled wishes for their health, prosperity and safety. Christmas is really a time of wonder. Merry Christmas to you all.
And the best present for Betty on Christmas day – relaxing.
A few years ago Sarah Moon made this picture of twins wearing identical white furs. Both dear friends I think of this holiday. The winter and cold is here.
The coziness and warmth you feel between them is also here. A moment of reflection on how we mirror ourselves in others at this time of year seeing those things
we share together in this dark season.
Many people know there is a forever love and friendship story between Naomi
and her “papa” Azzedine. A special relationship by election between them that
has been family for the other for almost thirty years.
Our family is as big as we choose to make it at this time of year.
In 1958 Warhol made this wonderfully childish Christmas tree pattern. As a paint it yourself coloring pattern, he shares with us his own special tree all colored in his Christmas surprise. Each ornament different as he wanted. Telling us to go and color in our own tree now. Here is the pattern. Such an amazing artist. It makes me think he believed in Christmas!
The Goudemalion: this is the first retrospective of Jean-Paul Goude’s work ever shown in Paris and is now at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs until Spring 2012. Featuring drawings, films and photographs, not to mention the gigantic waltzing ladies that amazed Paris at the Bicentenary, the installations show the most celebrated moments of his life and work, including many photos of Grace Jones, his muse and friend for over his long career. The name Goude- Malion is after Pygmalion,
the mythic sculptor who fell in love with his own statues.
We are listening at Christmas to the amazing voice of Jessye Norman singing Ave Maria and it reminds me of a special moment in 1989. Three artists helping each other. This behind the scenes photo was taken as Jessye Norman was getting ready to sing the Marseillaise at the French Bicentenary. Here she is being final fitted by Azzedine Alaia who designed her dress and helped by Jean-Paul Goude who designed the entire celebration.
I have spent almost the whole week at 10 Corso Como sharing in all the Christmas excitement wrapping all the boxes, tying all the bows, packing all the presents.
The store and bookshop, garden and restaurant humming with activity.
An invitation to spoil ourselves and our loved ones…
As a Christmas tradition I visit the churches where my father would take me to show the link between our rich history and art. This is the church of Santa Maria at
San Satiro, who was San Ambrogio’s brother. Commissioned by the Duke of Milano, it was designed by Bramante who went on to design St. Peter’s in Rome in the renaissance style. But what was interesting to me was the Sacellum, the interior of the church which is much older. Before being consecrated to Santa Maria it had been consecrated to the ancient gods of the Romans for sacrificial purposes.
The most beautiful and unexpected present I have received this year is this BERKEL prosciutto slicer! The company stopped in making them in 1960 and they are quite rare. It was truly a surprise as I rarely eat at home and do not know how to cook but as an object of beauty and utility it is its own work of art. It uses no electricity but is cranked by hand so it is nice and quiet and delicate slices result. So from today I have placed it in the middle of the 10 Corso Como Café to enjoy a slice of
San Daniele prosciutto on a thin carasau bread from Sardinia (carta da musica) and see this legendary beauty in action.
Santa Claus starts arriving here 13 days before Christmas Eve. This week I received my favorite Christmas card. Each year Manolo Blahnik sends a card that is a gift of love and long friendship that I have saved since the first one. It makes me think of Warhol and that he might have loved Santa Claus too. Here is Warhol’s shoe saying Merry Christmas.
Since September when it opened I wanted to see the exhibition of Fra Angelico and
“the painters of light”. These Masters of the Florentine Quattrocento are
at the Musée Jacquemart-André on Blvd Haussmann. The museum and its collections are an amazing small jewel of the 19th century in Paris. Fra Angelico was called also Beato, the blessed one. He painted angels and Madonnas of rare beauty and serenity. Lovely to see at this season.
One quick trip to Paris to see two very different exhibitions I knew would be closing down soon. The German artist Georg Baselitz, known for his neo expressionist style paintings, is exhibiting sculptural works I had not seen before,
at the Musee D’Art Moderne De la Ville de Paris. Baselitz is not only an artist but also a major collector and these monumental sculptures show the influence and inspiration of the tribal and popular art he collects. Working with an axe and chain saw, these 40 primal painted wooden sculptures are not to be missed.
Today we are flying back to Milano over the winter landscapes and my mind goes to one of the old Dutch masters who painted only winter landscapes.
Hendrick Avercamp born in Amersterdam in the XVII century painted so many fairy tale winter scenes with people ice skating on frozen canals as the ones we had just left in Groningen. It has been a week of fairy tales; a feast for the senses.
Saturday evening and I am spending it happily immersed
in the last ten years of Mr. Alaia’s work. A living treasure; a master in cutting and shapes; his vision of beauty and women is ever lasting and striking in this second period of his astonishing creativity. I am delighting as a child in the colors, textures, lines and folds of these wonderful creations. The exhibition reminds me of the other exhibitions in Florence, New York and here at the Groninger in the mid 90′s where the museum hosted a retrospective of Mr. Alaia’s work of the 20′s century.
And now we are getting into the darkest days faster and faster approaching Sinterklaas’ visit here to the Netherlands! We are in Amsterdam and Groningen
for the opening night of Azzedine Alaia’s 21st Century work at the Groningen Museum. While it is wonderful and fascinating to see so many people arriving in Groningen to share this special moment with Azzedine Alaia, a trip around the city at this time of year is a must.
The medieval atmosphere that you feel walking around this city gives way to surprises with the groundbreaking modern architecture scattered throughout.What strikes the most is the young population; a quarter of the city are students and you feel this enthusiasm and energy even in the early dark.
Here the Westpoort brug (bridge) which crosses the Channel and the new 92 meters tall building with undulating curves; it is one of the most environmentally sustainable office projects in Europe.
No trip to rue du Bac is complete without a stop at the Grande Epicerie.
Located one door from the Church, is the most wonderful grocery store in Paris and one of the best in the world. A foodie paradise, it is perfect to shop to please yourself and to find wonderful holiday presents. My favorite the chouquettes, a great viennoiserie made of choux pastry sprinkled with pearl sugar.
The 8th of December is a Holy day to celebrate the feast of the Blessed Virgin Mary.
I was in Paris on Thursday and went to the Rue du Bac, to visit the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal where visitors and pilgrims go to pray to St Catherine Laboure’ who received the vision for its design.
I see more and more people in the world (and some non-catholics) wearing the blu medal around their neck. It is a sign of distinction; people look at each other differently and share in the hope that we can work to make a peaceful world.
On the 7th of December every year Milano celebrates its patron, St. Ambrogio especially here at the church he built in the 4th century named in his honor. While the rest of Italy uses the Roman rite in Milano we use the Ambrosian rite which takes the name from our patron saint with differences in the Mass and the liturgical year.
It has two beautiful bell towers and is one of the most ancient churches in the city.
Sarah Moon gave me this great photo of an elephant as a gift for our 20th anniversary. It is symbol of wisdom and luck. I have him on my desk today while I make future for 10 CC. It seems I am now at my desk working both night and day – even on my most peaceful Sunday. And, since Christmas is always followed by a new year, I am beginning to plan for our next year’s exhibitions, including the 50th anniversary of Courrèges. With more openings, and more travels, it should be a wonderful year. And here at 10CC I have decided to make a new little project in our café this year. It will be called CU@10CC. More to come on that later…
This week I went to Kris’ studio to see his new work. And among the paintings and sculptures, he showed me the first prototype of a fountain he is making for the new Seoul garden opening next March. It is important to us and for 10 Corso Como to have green life and water around.
Tickets were all sold out at Blue Note for the concert of Sarah Jane Morris. Her music has many personal spiritual references and has always been for me an emotional experience to listen to her and see her perform. At the piano the great Danilo Rea. Here is a photo of her last night with her flamed red hair and black dress.
Good memories of a concert at 10 Corso Como
in September to celebrate our twenty years’ anniversary.
Our Christmas Reindeers made the long trip from the North Pole to Italy this year! They will be prancing and dashing all over 10 Corso Como on our Christmas cards and candles and boxes and ribbons and bows. In Mantua where I was born,
Santa Claus comes on Christmas day to bring gifts to the homes of good children, with magical elves and the nine flying reindeers.
Our reindeer in 18 different antlers versions is one only Kris could draw…
Since 1824 Pasticceria Marchesi has been producing the best panettone in town.
The traditional dome shaped cake associated with our city is made with natural yeast and has been attracting generations of Milanesi. It is a Christmas tradition to reserve the panettone weeks in advance and go to pick it up stopping at the nearby
Santa Maria delle Grazie, the church that is the site of Leonardo da Vinci’s fresco,
“The Last Supper”.
This Winter Sunday I made a stop at Sant’Eustorgio, my favorite church in Milano.
This is one of the churches my father would take my sister and me to visit when we were growing up and explain the architecture and the art there.
Sant’Eustorgio dates to the third/fourth century and it was the site of the tomb of the Three Magi whose remains were said to have been removed
from Costantinopoli in 344 and brought here.
The bell tower is still today surmounted by a star to guide the Wise Men.
Next year I am starting with an exhibition in the Galleria Sozzani that I have always wanted to do. I am presenting the work of Mrs. Newton who worked under the name of Alice Springs. One of my first shows at Galleria Sozzani was of Helmut Newton’s work. Since then I have presented three more exhibitions, always with the presence of
Helmut and June, his wife. Over the years I came to know and appreciate her work and to love her as a friend. Here she is performing Salomè in 1951.
This week I am finally sending to print my book on the first
two decades of the Galleria Carla Sozzani. I have changed my mind so many times, traveled back and forth in time through so many lives, events, emotions and all of the people that have been the fabric of this adventure here at 10 Corso Como.
In honor of the book , Kris Ruhs has designed a new eco video you see here.
From the first seed to a full tree with flowers and fruits; it is the expression from the Galleria’s first exhibition to all of the ideas and events we host now. Sustainable growth in our garden and in our business. Thank you Kris for this and all the flowers you make for Corso Como.
Great music, a great crowd and a pair of great new eco synthetic vegan “dancing” shoes from the first Melissa+Gareth Pugh shoe collaboration turned 10 Corso Como into a fantastic Friday evening party!
Pugh- always experimenting with form and volume – took on his first global collaboration with Melissa, the Brazilian company famous for its wonderful synthetic vegan and earth friendly shoes who have caught the eye of Vivienne Westwood, Beyoncé and other trendsetters in the last few years. Pugh’s fans from the many fashion schools of Milano came to listen to DJ’s from Ponystep Magazine.
While in Paris, I went to the Alaia studio and found that the studio was packing up collections, shoes and rtw accessories, to give up for sale in two weeks in Paris.
All of the money raised will go to support research into genetic diseases at the Necker Childrens Hospital and their Imagine Foundation Research Center in Paris.
A child’s game of tombola and an auction led the evening gala dinner at the
Hotel Ritz to raise money for the serious problem of children in danger from the internet. Since 1999 Valérie Wertheimer, Founder and Ceo of Action Innocence, has focused her attention to help protect children dignity and integrity.
Amongst the guests Tatiana Trouvé with Azzedine Alaia.
Monday we are flying over the Alps here at low level. The sky was spectacularly cloudless and you could see every detail of the mountains so clearly,
it was a fantasy Alps panorama made real and the urban life behind in Milano the dream, at least for the hour of the flight.
This Sunday I am sitting at the desk in the Galleria that is right next to my office.
I never grow tired of looking at these amazing photos of Edward Steichen. Last night was the opening of the show that the Galleria will host through the New Year.
Today, the Cultural Counselor Stefano Boeri organized the first “Milano A spasso”.
No cars in Milano and more than 100 events are being hosted to celebrate the cultural treasures of the City for the Milanaise. The bookstore and Galleria are full with walkers, bicycles and good cheer in a very quiet Milano! Milano Green makes me think of this iconic tree taken by Carlo Valsecchi.
The story is Steichen was to shoot Garbo on a Monday morning. Not liking
how her hair looked, she pulled it all back saying, “I do not like!”.
Steichen said, “STOP. Do not move” and took the photo. It is considered one of the best pictures of Garbo ever taken.
Steichen photographed the ballerina Gilda Gray dancing “Medusa” in 1923. Seventy years later Peter Lindbergh photographed Naomi Campbell in Azzedine Alaïa.
First shown at the Jeu de Paume in Paris, Steichen’s work during his years at Vogue and Vanity Fair being installed in Galleria Carla Sozzani. This is a delight. The most exciting moments with an exhibition is always in the installation. Here Bill Ewing who curated the exhibition and the book.
When I go to Florence, I try to go to via Tornabuoni, not so much to see the great fashions, but more for the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum and Procacci – since 1885 a delicatessen famous for its truffles. A truffle panini and a glass of prosecco at the wine bar is a great wayto see the real Florentine life.
Today sunny Sunday, indian summer in Milano with a wonderful full moon of new beginnings this week so today is a good day to start a new jewellery book with Vanni Burkhart working with the natural light coming through my office window.
On Thursday evening the Galleria Bookshop of 10 Corso Como hosted a
booksigning for the comical and graphic artist Lorenzo Mattotti, for
each person who asked, he very generously made a special drawing.What a wonderful gift.
Many fans of his work came to meet with him and see his new book on
Venezia. A work he considers an honest reflection of himself and the
structure of a city he cares deeply about.
It was a very special first day for me to go around the fair with a
photographer I truly admire, Sarah Moon. Sarah is standing here in front
of her new series shown at Paris Photo for the first time exquisite
portraits of flowers.
The African theme resonates with many things in my life. Among them is the wonderful show at Galleria Carla Sozzani in 1991 where we exhibited a series of ritual masques and the new “portrait works” of Kris Ruhs.
Special recognition at Paris Photo was given to Artur Walther who has
been a serious collector of photography for over twenty years. Born in
Germany and now living in New York, his private collection of emerging
African, Chinese and German photographers is breathtaking in its scope
and quality. Here a wall of African heads, looking like sculptures from
his German show: Portraits and Social Identity.
On Wednesday I was in Paris for Paris Photo. A most important annual
exhibition held for the first time at the Grand Palais.Full of events and exhibitions for gallerists and curators from all over the world to
meet and exchange thoughts on photography both vintage and modern as on my wall.
Paris Photo celebrates its 15th anniversary this year with more than100 galleries and publishers joining in. Following its tradition of naming a
special focus, Place of Honour was given to Africa and showcases
photographers from Bamako to Cape Town.All wonderful to look at.
Sitting in Milan now I am watching the rain and I realize
how immediate our own responses are to what is in front of us.
The tragedy in Liguria almost blots out a week of great beauty for me until now.
This is the coast of Liguria where this week strong floods
caused deaths in Genova and Monterosso.
One wonders how such beauty can become so quickly disaster and destruction.
Today we are thinking of the people and children
who still struggle in this week end’s torrential rainfall.
New to my desk this week is this wonderful book from Kris Ruhs.
Each page an original portrait of his interactions with the people and events
he sees where the expressions are as personal and direct as he is.
These faces say more than 1,000 words!
Renovated in the mid 1990’s by Starck and Mendini
on the bend of a canal in northern Netherlands,
The Groninger Museum is hosting for the second time
a major exhibition of Azzedine Alaia.
In December of 1997 the museum inaugurated a retrospective of Mr. Alaia’s work
before its presentation in New York City.
Now, on the 10th of December, but 14 years later, The Groninger will inaugurate
a show again of the last decade of Alaia’s vision.
Here we are behind the scenes in Paris as Mark Wilson,
the curator, prepare the catalogue for the show.
On the last day of October I was invited to a private evening tour
of the Degas Exhibition at the Royal Academy in London
followed by a small dinner party taken in one of the salons that are rarely used or seen.
The silence and peace of the evening visit,
the beauty of the dancers Degas painted countless times
and this thoughtfully curated show made me aware that
even if we think we know an artist, their work is always a discovery.
And of course the opportunity to see the Degas photographs was my best moment.
Emerging from the darkness into the single source light,
a dancer’s perfectly poised moment captured by his eye was simply exquisite.
When I sat at my desk six weeks ago and thought yes, it would be nice to share a bit of this quiet time that I use to think about so many of the wonderful people and events that have been my week, I had not really thought about how much time I spend now being away from this desk and Milano.
So here is another picture of my favorite desk – with some of the favorite things I like to see when I am here at home at 10 Corso Como – pictures of my family and Kuramata’s bright pink lucite vases are a joy to come home to.
I am italian so for me there are no memories of childhood Halloween parties.
When I found out this feast’s origin comes from the Romans, the festival of Pomona,
goddess of fruits and seeds…I liked it better!
It is a night of scary stories and cats play a big role amongst the witches, bats and vampires…here our 10 Corso Como cats are ready to go out on the 31st, like they do every year. Trick or treat.
Blackie, our sweet Bengala cat sits on Kris’ shoulder when we got home. She will stay safe at home on tomorrow night.
The night we leave we meet friends for a drink at Sevva Restaurant overlooking the harbour of Hong Kong. What you cannot see is the amazing sunset that circle us entirely around as we sit and catch up with friends. By the time I stopped listening to take the picture, the colours had faded!
In the most chaotic city I think on the earth, with sounds,smells and activities seeming to take up all the space, the trees make their own space through the cement, and they grow where they can, creating this incredible living sculpture…nothing can beat nature!
Walking along Hong Kong’s elevated streets where you never get wet even when it rains – a great achievement - we watched the workers building the new Giorgio Armani store. Back lighted here against the scaffold and the building reminded me of the black and white photos taken by Franco Grignani in 1927 (left) and the one by Charles C. Ebbets of New York City in the 1930’s when that city was shaping its skyline as Hong Kong does now.
This afternoon in Seoul I have turned a table in the café next to the patio
and the books of 10 Corso Como Cheongdam into my desk. This feels very
natural to do. I am not here often so it is a wonderful feeling to be comfortable
and at home seeing things I know and the many familiar faces.
Since opening 10 Corso Como Cheongdam three years ago, Chef Ahn has created
a stellar ambiance and cuisine for our visitors. Thank you! And thank you also for
the box lunch you prepared for Kris and I on our way to Hong Kong. It was delicious.
It is a Korean tradition at Café Bark to serve Irish whisky on the “rocks”
that have been carved and polished to a thing of beauty.
We had a great reception at 10 Corso Como Cheongdam for the presentation
of Ali Hewson Edun Collection for Spring 2012. The project supports the work Ali
and Bono do in Africa to create economic opportunites through fashion.
Here Kate, Ali, Janice, Vicky…and Kris sharing a moment at the show.
Next year! March 2012 – this will be our sign?
The first issue is light! Department store windows are rare. We are looking
everywhere behind the walls to find windows and bring some light to
10 Corso Como - Avenue L. Milano has light and gardens in the courtyard;
we have a garden with fountains in Cheongdam. How have our eco
friendly feeling on a 5th floor with no natural lights and windows?
For those of you who have not been here, Seoul is very large and 10 Corso Como
has the opportunity to open in another space on the opposite side of town.
It is on the 5th floor of of Avenue L, the exclusive building of Lotte, one of
Korea’s iconic shopping venues, so is quite a challenge to design
in 10 Corso Como style. On the flight from Shanghai to Seoul Kris looking out the
window – maybe this is an omen? We will find windows in our new challenge project?
Before leaving Shanghai we visited this amazing unexpected building in the center of Shanghai. While many of the older buildings are being replaced,
the Sino-Russian Friendship building, a Russian interpretation of classical architecture built in 1954, sits like a wedding cake surrounded by glass skyscrapers!
The new and old side by side in Shanghai.
This week it is really from several desks that I write. I will have
three desks before the week is out! Before leaving Paris this week I saw
the Kusama show. Then a quick trip home to Milano, and shop at Smile
Project, then off Kris and I go to Shanghai.
The Puli is my favorite hotel in Shanghai. It is in the center so easy to find everything with a spectacular city view overlooking Jingan Park.
A light brunch revives as we start the day and a restful balancing white tea massage this afternoon in the hotel’s wonderful Anantara Spa
before a walk in the garden slows down this Sunday almost as much as the garden at 10 Corso Como!
On a quiet street in the still chic French Concession of Shanghai, Chef
and owner Franck Pécol can make me think I had forgotten to leave Paris
last night. Following the seasons and the market, at Franck the menu changes every
day. With regular favorites like the Terrine de Campagne and a
glass of red wine .
Leaving Milano to travel now to Asia with a full moon over 10 Corso Como
saying goodbye. The Native Americans called this the harvest moon as it
is the time of harvesting the seeds we have been planting. So if the
moon is of good omen when I get back I will have
news of future 10 Corso Como plans and happenings around
the world.
Since 1997, smile project in the world – onlus, a non profit
organization has helped children surgically repair facial disfigurements
first in Bangladesh and now around the world. An auction of gifts given
by all the Italian Fashion Industry made us throw our hands and hearts
into the bidding for these beautiful offers. Here Ariela Goggi from
Vogue with several of the gifts and a smile and a smiling Andrea D’Amico
and Sara Maino who helped to organize this successful event.
I was able to see the preview for the first French retrospective of
Yayoi Kusama at the Centre Pompidou. This prolific international
artist’s influence on American abstract minimalism became clear in the
early pieces here. She settled in New York during the crucible of the
late 1950’s 1960’s. Her later works on film, scupture, performance
installations (at several Biennales here in Italy) and fashion
influences are still significant on the contemporary scene and the work
is a happy balance of joy and seriousness.
I have come to realize that my desk is where my heart is.
My heart always is thinking of my family, my friends and
what makes life interesting for me and for them.
So today I share another kind of desk with you.
This is the kitchen of Azzedine Alaia where the best dinners happen.
From serious to singing, from most famous to only the Alaia team,
always the best conversations and the mood is always the same: family.
From here I can think to write about the rest of Paris I have seen this week.
And this week my first thought is for Yohji Yamamoto’s mother, 95,
so proud to see her son being awarded
Commandeur dans l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres by the French Ministry of Culture.
To see her next to Yohji made everybody aware of the priority our families mean to us.
At a dinner hosted by the Minister of Culture Frederic Mitterand,
I was able to see a new work by Swiss artist Felice Varini.
Commissioned by the Ministry, the piece was installed
in a hallway of the Ministry of Culture in Paris.
Varini’s projector-stencil technique is striking and uses the corridor
(my photo at the left) to great advantage.
The simple geometric shapes – circles,squares,lines – and in this case the yellow
he employs throughout gives light and life to the space.
It is great. And was a delightful surprise on Wednesday night.
In the Celine showroom Silvia and Elena happily show their slim silhouettes
achieved after following Dr. Dukan’s diet, recipes, menus and tips.
Now they can wear all the clothes they have been dreaming about.
Here photographed by Worth designer Giovanni Bedini.
The historic Palais d’Iena designed between 1937 and 1946
by architect Auguste Perret has been the breathtaking background
of the beautiful Miu Miu show on Wednesday. Brava Miuccia!
Nature reigned in the aquatic themes interpreted magically
by Sarah Burton for the Alexander Mc Queen show.
She has shown once more her talent and
with the introduction of mother of pearl, sea anemones, miles of lace, encrustations
of beading this imaginative show was actually a couture show.
Here an amazing coral dress.
Le Rasputine – evoking the old Paris of Russian émigrés is
the best of the new Paris night clubs.
With the spirits of Gainsbourg, the Aga Khan and
the Comte de Paris lounging on the banquettes
in attendance, Carine Roitfeld presented her book “Irreverent” and among the guests,
Giorgio Guidotti my dear friend who will have a chapter in my life as
“fedele nel tempo”.
I know in Paris I should eat locally and mostly I do of course,
but since 1950 this Neapolitan pizzeria restaurant Da Bartolo
has been one of the best places to find good Italian food in Paris.
My favorite dish endives with melted warm gorgonzola cheese.
And just to give myself a moment of peace I also visit Mr. Ho
who does the best pedicure in Paris.
There I fall asleep in the quiet soft music atmosphere,
an hour of pure spoiling myself. And while I rest, my toes become shining and
a baby rose colour with nothing but his magic hands – no nail polish!
