It is collection week in Milano so lots of fashion to see, and this week The Met Museum in NYC, who has had so many shows these years

of great designers as well as great art has just announced the exhibition of two great italian women designers, both linked to art: Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada. Fashion and art is a centuries old love affair, from the Romans at Pompeii to ancient greek vases; Gold of Byzantines and robes of Orientals.  To Poiret…the influence has flowed both ways – art to fashion – fashion to art. Real artists don’t see the difference between creating an original work of art such as a painting and designing a textile pattern, each is seen as a valid creative act.

The symbol of all that is more daring…shocking has a meaning that goes far beyond the color Schiaparelli loved..shocking pink. As she says in her book “Shocking life” published in 1954 “I stormed the press with my trouser-skirts”- Her love for beauty made her meet Poiret and love his clothes;  her love for art made her say, “even if I were poverty-stricken I wouldn’t take a fortune for my Picasso”. Even 50 years old, her book is a must read; it is a challenge as she switches between first and third person- confusing to the reader- but in keeping with her love for Surrealism!

If Schiaparelli shocks, Miuccia Prada dares. A subtle nod this week seen here to Schiaparelli and her famous trouser-skirts?  Maybe. But for whatever Prada’s inspiration, it was a surprising wonder to see the skirts and dresses over the pants in this great unpredictable show.

Here, hands painted by Picasso to look like gloves and photographed by Man Ray inspired Schiaparelli’s 1936 collection. Fascinated by the Surrealist movement she reversed the “picture”, making gloves looking like hands with red fingernails. The black gloves were worn with a Surrealist suit. The pockets were made to look like drawers she had done in collaboration with Dalì. The shoes of Comme des Garçons again show a bit of inspired surrealism. Walking in art.

Trompe l’oeil was a technique started by Schiaparelli very early in her career, when she created the knitted sweater on the left. Roberta di Camerino became even more famous with this technique.  One of her dresses here on the right, but also the creation of La Bagonghi bag. La Bagonghi is not only the trompe l’oeil most famous bag but its shape is this season the most seen on all the runways. In the center gallery of 10 Corso Como we filled the salon with her tricks of the eye this season.

Looking at the press clippings and newspaper stories about this weeks’ fashion shows, I happily recall this picture of Bill Cunningham. Bill is a living legend although he is modest about his work. He has taken covering street fashion and turned it into a very personal artistic expression unique to him.  For over 50 years he has caught the most important moments in fashion’s shows on the street. Here in front of the panel of the opening of his exhibition and in the street in Paris with master Azzedine Alaia.

Innovative photography and graphic design were natural to Lillian Bassman, when in the 40′s and 50′s she was art director of Bazaar with Alexey Brodovitch. Her long forgotten negatives of beautiful ethereal and elegant women were only found in the early 90′s. We were delighted to have a great exhibition of her work at the Galleria here in 1992.  Art supporting fashion, supporting art.

Beginnings, endings and continuings – all have been a part of this week happening far away and close to home here in 10 Corso Como.  A new installation of Kris Ruhs is being placed outside here in Milano and here, inside Milano

I have been most focused on the continuings of my great friendship with the Newtons.

The show of Alice Springs: these are photos I have wanted to exhibit for a very long time – as long as I have known Helmut and his wife June, “Alice Springs” Newton.

I cannot help but think of the four exhibitions we have had for Helmut at the Galleria.

He and June have been supporters of the Galleria’s vision since started and it is such a delight for me to have this exhibition of June’s work.

She who has urged Helmut along his path. Her path is so clearly exciting. Here two pictures in my office, June with friend and Helmut model Jenny Capitain in 1999 and Helmut in 1996.

Alice Springs first photographs were for Gitanes cigarettes. By coincidence, Helmut was ill and Alice went to do the job.  Her career as a photographer for Depeche Mode blossomed and for years, taking portraits she met and be friended people everywhere she would travel.

Many do not realize that the greatest talents have great humor as well,  as it is not always in front of the camera. Here, humor being a part of their life and work, June, Alice Springs, is doing an advertising campaign for Jean Louis David and the “extra” is Helmut dressed as a nun.

A wonderful present from the Helmut Newton Foundation’s director Matthias Harder was this art book by Berlin based artist Brigitte Waldach.

So many levels of meditation in her works, done with fine line drawings and only a deep red pigment on paper to reinforce symbolically her intentions.

Her references to literature and motion pictures seem only a departing point for deeper considerations of space and how we choose to occupy it.

A most controversial artist because of his direct nude photos, he was one of the sweetest and nicest people to work with.  Still working at Vogue I had the pleasure of spending many days working with him in his NY studio.

Everytime I would visit it was surprising the direction he would take the shoot.

Seeing his retrospective now showing at “Forma” here in Milano one can still sense the surprise his work always generates.  Not to be missed.

One of the best fashion illustrators – Antonio Lopez. He worked both in Paris and New York with the great designers Charles James and Largerfeld and so many others. When I was with Vogue we not only worked with some of the best

photographers, but illustrators like Antonio as well and visiting his studio was always interesting. Jerry Hall, Grace Jones and Jessica Lange would become friends and model for him.

Here Pat and Antonio. Pat was the first of the cult of the super models and appeared on the cover of Antonio’s book shown here and she still is an icon forty years later.

How amazing that here is this photograph of three of the most exceptional of all the designers of this century suspended in the light from the 18th century as in a painting.  Azzedine Alaia, Rudi Gernreich and Thierry Mugler whose influence achieved such a high degree of importance changing fashion in ways we only now see – three together in this installation.
A unique moment caught. How can one not love photography?

In the midst of my work I realized that this week has been one of nostalgia.

Reflecting on the past can bring on a bit of melancholy but it also fires

the re-emergence of aesthetics and this week surely we have seen that.

Introducing here Maison Courreges, the beautiful Whitman poem that Oliviero Toscani read to honor Elio Fiorucci and of course the sad news today

of the legend Whitney Houston.

So many years I have been following his work and his multi-talented skills, but always happy to be surprised by his different inspirations.

Multi-talented artist, a painter and a sculptor, that has worked with

Comme des Garçons to great delight many many seasons, in magazines and for many famous designers. Julien d’Ys is hosted on the Metropolitan Museum site

for his work on The Model As Muse: Embodying Fashion he worked on in 2009.

Having also worked with the Met on Anglomania and Super Hero shows there,

d’Ys amazingly fanciful wigs always draw gasps of wonder.

Kris Ruhs will have another in his series of installation sculptures outside

of the 10 Corso Como Milano building installed next week.

Here in the studio today the seven Totems in process are already

taking wonderful shapes.

Courrèges himself said: “we work for today to create tomorrow’s style”.

He thought the world was aging in 1965 and he sketched a look so radical

that he started a revolution. Spare dresses worn 4 inches above

the knees with flat white boots.

10 Corso Como hosts now a celebration for Courrèges 50th anniversary.

Malcolm Mc Laren was a close friend of Elio Fiorucci. He began many movements in both the music and fashion world in London that started trends for decades on.

Manager of the Sex Pistols and former partner of Vivienne Westwood,

his ideas influenced NY, L.A., Tokyo and Paris.

In 1988 he wrote Deep in Vogue about culture and fashion crossover,

creating the Vogueing dance and song.

“But here I am Vogueing pretty

In some club deep in this city

  Deep in Vogue, Deep in Vogue

                    Imagine runway modelling, in freeze frame

                 At the ball that’s what they call Vogueing“

Elio’s list of best friends now seems important but then

it was as outsiders making waves and having fun.

Here some best friends: Andy Warhol who at the opening of Fiorucci New York

wrote ”I like everything here…it is all plastic”,

Keith Haring who came to Milano to decorate the Fiorucci shop,

Basquiat of whom Fiorucci funded the movie New York Beat

(to become Downtown 81),

Ettore Sottsass, Oliviero Toscani and Malcom McLaren among others.

Oliviero Toscani honored Elio by reading the poem Beginners,  by Walt Whitman,

the visionary American poet.

Maripol worked and traveled as art director for Fiorucci.

Polaroid  is a great invention that she, like Warhol used as “voyeurs” of their times.

They took thousands of portraits of all this world of fashion, music, film and art.

Maripol became the stylist for friend Madonna on the Like a Virgin video

that rocked the music scene.

On Friday evening Elio Fiorucci was honored by the Circolo Filologico of Milano.

For 130 years they have honored those who have brought new ideas

into the culture from language, science and the arts.

In 1967 when Elio opened his Fiorucci store in Galleria Passerella something

changed in the conservative fashion scene here in Milano. At this time in London

Biba was the fresh fashion reference and in Milano there was Gulp -

but nothing existed in Milano or anywhere else like the store that Elio Fiorucci built.

The San Babila store had three floors of novelties

and things you couldn’t find anywhere else.

More importantly, everything was an original. The prize he received on Friday

evening was more than deserved. Grazie Elio for your vision.

This week everything seems white.  Always a fascinating color .

It is both sharp and yet has no edge. From the snows this week in Milano that
added magic to nature, the new designs of Tom Dixon in marble and the
solo exhibit of Paolo Roversi in London , the soft luminescence of
white moves over the days this week carrying us into

the whitest February in 27 years.

After Paolo’s opening Wapping hosted a wonderful dinner in this unusual building in East London.  Built in 1890, this immense hydraulic power station has been converted to galleries and a restaurant the serious “foodies” are now traveling to.

It is a privilege to be near beauty when fashion design and photography meet as they do in Paolo Roversi’s photographs.  Known for working with the “intelligent designers” the strength of style in these portraits of women represent the best beauty and magic of this white season.  Somehow you see the edge but it is also seamless.

Now at Wapping and not to be missed if in London.

Tom Dixon showed his first home accessories line at Maison & Object for everyday wares.  Eclectic, the name of his collection uses many of the same materials he has always favored.  Liking the organic, he blends copper, wood and marble to make bowls, serving trays and candleholders that creates a maze of lights

adding magic to any place.